I have now had two days of classes, but it feels like I have been here for months. I am settling into a routine, and everything is starting to make sense. So far, I have had four days of language, for the next few months we will have language class for two hours every morning… I can’t imagine that I will ever be at an intermediate level, but that is the plan and the hope. I have also had a lecture on Nepali history from start to 1950! It was a lot to take in, but the lecturer spoke conversationally. He is supposedly one of the most renowned experts on Nepali history in the world, so it was definitely an honor to have the chance to listen to him, no matter the colossal load of information he bestowed upon us. Today, I had a lecture on development theory. Honestly, it was not exactly what I would have hoped it to be, but the readings the night before were fulfilling enough that I am not too upset. We tried to cover topics from development as a whole (and how it started), to dependency theory, to neo liberalism and I don’t think the concepts were really done justice, but how could they be when you can spend a lifetime dissecting any one of those notions.
Moment of truth: I am having a hard time relating to my peers because everything about Kathmandu feels all too familiar. Last summer, my mind was blown- I witnessed things that I didn’t know could exist and I was certainly inspired to study more, broaden my horizon and take action. This semester (and I have only been here for just over a week) I am experiencing something different. The culture, the city, the poverty, it all feels familiar and I am just waiting for something to strike me as shocking. I am by no means comfortable with the things that are prevalent in Kathmandu, especially the poverty, but I am no longer in shock. I am trying to convince myself that this is a good thing and that I will be able to focus more on my research while I am here, but I am still searching for that moment of revelation—I have faith it will come though. We watched a movie today about a village in Nepal, and although I wasn’t entirely surprised that this village existed (like many of my classmates) I was still hugely affected by the story and at moments I wanted to break down and cry. The movie is called “We Corner People” and it discussed those living on the periphery, or the corner. Much of Nepal is made up of small villages off the beaten track, or in the corner, actually pretty much anything outside of a Kathmandu is rural. One interviewee said, “I wouldn’t be happy anywhere else, since I was born here. I guess I like living in the corner.” But, the overall notion in the film was a general dislike for living on the periphery. Another person expressed, “In such a corner, life’s gone a waste.” I feel so privileged and so lucky to have been brought up in the circumstances that I was and I hope that I can take this blessing and utilize the assets that I have been given to affect change.
Clearly, I still do not understand poverty and I don’t understand the wants and needs of Nepalese people, but I feel some sort of connection. I hope that I can continue studying and critiquing development and what it means to be “under developed” (especially because the word development leaves a pretty sour taste in my mouth as of now). I hope that I can find out where I fit in the equation.
In the meantime, I am really enjoying the Nepalese culture, the similarities and the differences of what I have previously experienced. Yesterday, after class I went with Isha (Emily… oh and my Nepalese name is Manisha) to celebrate Teej, a festival that is coming up this Sunday that celebrates women! Emily and my aamaa (mom) are sisters. When we arrived at her house there were so many women on the roof, singing and dancing and eating. We joined in the festivities and it was a lot of fun! A few of our other classmates came over too, which was really nice. The lyrics to the Hindi songs, many of which were written for the holiday, were quite vulgar! Nepali culture, especially because of the Hindi influence is really conservative, especially for women, but perhaps because it is a celebration of women they can do what ever they want for the day? The actual festival is Sunday, so I will update how that goes.
My family, on the other hand, is quite liberal. They have been nothing but kind and welcoming and I am very comfortable in the home. I have four siblings, two sisters and two brothers, my didi who is 22 (I think) studied for 4 years in Australia and speaks great English, my bhanini who is 18 and my two bhai who are 17 or 18 and 9. I also have an aamaa (mom) and baabaa (dad) who are very nice, and speak very little English and a kaka (uncle) who speaks no English and is mentally handicapped. Quite a full house! I am a little overwhelmed by the language classes now, but it is incentive to learn so I can better communicate with my family and feel all the more comfortable here.
Today, I had to go get rabies and Japanese encephalitis vaccines. I guess the dogs here are really unpredictable and could bite at any time, so it is certainly worth the getting the injection. Afterwards, I wandered around the city a bit and met up with some friends from my program and got local Nepali beers called Everest. I didn’t get lost finding my way home!! Tomorrow, I am going back to Bodha to meet up with Kelsey and Maria and I plan on bringing Jacob with me (all of us are from Wooster and happen to be in Nepal at the same time!). I am excited to go back to Bodha, and I might play a little soccer there!
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